Sprite Technical Information

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Sections:
Engine
Electrical
Transmission/Differential
Suspension / Steering
Body
Misc

New:
Install a convertible Top

Engine:
Building a No-Leak Engine
Downflow to Crossflow Radiator Conversion
Temperature Guage Calibration

Building a No-Leak Engine, by Les Myer

Although I am a Sprite novice, I have built more engines than I can recall during my tenure as a professional mechanic for American automobiles in what seems like a previous life. Over the years, I developed many opinions as to how to successfully seal them against leaks. Recently, I performed a complete overhaul on the 1275cc in the 67 Sprite I acquired 6 months ago and applied my sealing techniques during the re-build. I am happy to say that after the first 400 miles, my engine has not leaked one drop of anything onto the white cardboard I have placed under the car when it is parked in my garage. I am not inferring that I am a Sprite expert in any way, but offer my opinions for your consideration. If I state something that is obviously stupid, let me know so I can learn.

Sprite engines are similar in basic design to American-made motors, except that they have no rear main oil seal. Instead, the rear-main cap / rear cap cover are machined to tight tolerances with the "sealing surface" (for lack of a better word) of the crankshaft. There are spiral grooves machined into the "sealing surface" to pull any escaping oil back into the crankcase. The fit of the cap and cover in relationship to the crankshaft is critical for oil control. If the block is line-bored, or if the cap/cover is allowed to scrape on the crank, this critical fit could easily be destroyed. There are kits available for installing a true rear main seal, - they are an option.

The 1098 and 1275cc engines have a PCV system that is supposed to maintain a vacuum on the crankcase. Air is drawn into the engine, by the PCV system, through a calibrated orifice in the oil filler cap. Maintaining such a vacuum certainly helps prevent oil from flowing through the tight tolerances of the rear main cap/cover. (The 948cc engine has a draft tube that creates a vaccum in the crankcase when the car passes through the air, but only vents the crankcase when the car is sitting still.)

The previous owner of my Sprite decided that a PCV valve was a "bad thing" and removed it as well as the hose leading from the oil separator mounted on the timing cover. Since the engine was in need of serious repair (2 exhaust valves leaking, >0.010 cylinder taper, flat cam lobes, etc), consequently there was considerable blow-by with no place to go except out the front cover, rear main, and every other seal on the engine. When pressure would build up, about a pint of oil at a time would blurb out the open orifice in the oil separator, all over the front of the engine and engine compartment. The moral to this story is that one should expect an engine to leak oil if 1) the crankcase ventilation system is not working properly and/or 2) excessive blow-by is present. On a 1098 or 1275cc engine, the idle RPMs should rise if the oil filler cap is removed (from my shop manual), thus indicating a vacuum on the crankcase was present before removal of the cap (assumed). If your car does not pass this test, you need to find out why and fix it or buy a big bag of oil dry and a case of oil to put in the trunk.

• Installing the rear main cap cover correctly:
  When overhauling an engine, it is not absolutely necessary to disturb the positioning of the rear main cap cover. I chose to remove mine due to concerns about destroying the cover-to-block gasket material during hot-tanking of the block. I left this cover off while checking bearing clearances with plastiguage. I then removed the crank and installed the rear cover/cover-to-block gasket in the following manner. After coating the gasket on both sides with Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket #3H I positioned the cover and tightened the three bolts firmly to squeeze out excess sealer before loosening them up a little so the cover could be moved around as much as the bolt holes would allow. I placed the crankshaft on the lubricated bearings and pushed the rear cover tightly against the crankshaft sealing surface before tightening the rear cover bolts to approximately 1/2 final torque. This exactly centers the rear cover, but leaves the rear cover too deep against the crank. (When the main cap is installed, the rear cover will be pushed away from the crankshaft sealing surface the proper distance). I then installed the rear main cap (with lubricated bearing) and torqued it to specifications before tightening the rear cover bolts to final torque. The crankshaft should spin freely without any rubbing on the rear cover. If not, the adjustment sequence will have to be repeated. After removing the rear main cap again and cleaning the cap mating surfaces with carburetor cleaner on a rag, I coated part of the rear main surface on the block from the "oil sealing surface" on the crank out to the edge of where the rear main cap would fit with Form-a-Gasket #3H, being careful not to use too much. All main caps were then installed and torqued to specifications.
• Installing the rest of the gaskets except for the head and intake/exhaust gaskets:
  I meticulously cleaned all sealing surfaces with carbuetor cleaner and a rag and inspected the bolt holes in the timing cover and oil pan for distortion from over-tightening, using a carpenter's square as a straight-edge. If a bolt hole was found to be pulled to far in, I put a big punch in the bolt hole and knocked the distortion back. Gaskets were coated on both sides with Form-a-Gasket #3H before installation. The front and rear oil pan corks were positioned in the oil pan and cut off 3/8" above the pan surface to ensure compression and a tight fit. The oil pan side gaskets were placed in position on the block and their ends as well as the end-seal sealing surfaces on the block were liberally dabbed with additional Form-a-Gasket. The end-seal guides in the pan were coated with Form-a-Gasket, the end seals were installed in the pan, the end-seals were coated again, and the pan was installed with a new bolt/washer kit. I did have to clean up a lot of squeezed-out sealer with a rag and rubbing alcohol. The rest of the gaskets were simply coated on both sides and installed, except for the intake/exhaust gaskets and the head gasket on which no sealer was used. I did use an accurate 10-75 ft/lb torque wrench on all bolts and re-torqued them after several days had passed.
• Timing Cover Seal and Frost Plugs:
  I installed the timing cover seal after wiping a coat of Blue Permatex RTV on the outer edge of the seal and also in the timing cover where the seal goes. Frost plugs were installed in a likewise manner.
• Head Gasket:
  The first head gasket I installed leaked bubbles of compression gasses out the threads of one head stud nut, while cranking the engine (without ever starting it). This gasket was obviously a bargain-basement item that came with the VB head kit as it had no markings as to what was "up" or "front". I may have installed it upside down but it should have sealed on the newly machined block and head surfaces, at least during cranking. After removing the head and gasket, nothing apparent could be found. I went in search of a quality head gasket and found out I could special order a head gasket from Fel-Pro through my local parts store. It cost more than the whole head set from VB but this gasket is a composition type gasket that comes pre-printed with special sealer on both sides and even has copper rings for the water passages - very impressive. I bought new grade 8 washers and small block Chevy rod nuts to fasten the head down and carefully wire-brushed all the head stud threads until the nuts could be literally spun down by brushing your hand against them. When going back together, I oiled the new nuts/washers and torqued the head down in 10 ft/lb increments, using the appropriate sequence.

Converting a Sprite from a Downflow to a Crossflow Radiator - by Mike Harlan
Last year I converted my Bugeye from a downflow to a crossflow radiator to improve the cooling situation, since I was marginal on cooling with a built 1098cc motor. The procedure below is what I did for the conversion. Steps might vary for a non-Bugeye, but should be fundamentally the same. First, I bought a radiator shroud from a 1275 Spridget with a cross-flow radiator. You need to be very careful here, as some 1275 Sprites were downflow, and the Midget 1500 is a totally different design!! I got my shroud used from Faspec, Inc. in Portland, Oregon, along with a lot of other bits listed below for about $65. I have since seen that someone, Vicky Brit I believe, sells them new. It would have saved a lot of work in cleaning, straightening, and painting, but certainly would be more expensive. I also got the lower crossover tube, which runs below the radiator in front of the steering rack. These are also available new if used can't be found. An overflow tank is needed, as it is the source of filling the system rather than the radiator itself. The overflow tank is brass, so used is OK. The new parts I purchased were the radiator, all hoses (upper, lower, crossover, and overflow), and the radiator cap. Why bother with old, unknown parts which may or may not work. Mini Mania cut me an EXTRORDINARY deal for all that stuff, plus a 6 bladed plastic fan. The conversion itself is simple, once you have the right parts.

• Simply remove the old radiator and hoses.
• Bolt the crossover tube to the steering rack mounting bolts, making sure the ends of the tube are tilted forward.
• Install the lower radiator hose between the crossover tube and the engine.
• Install the plastic fan.
• Install the radiator into the shroud (Note - only use the bolts supplied or you will distroy the radiator!).
• Next, bolt in the new radiator shroud where the old radiator was mounted. Make sure shroud is as low as possible in the mounts.
• Install the crossover hose, which goes between the bottom of the radiator and the crossover tube.
• Install the upper radiator hose. On 948 and 1098 engines this requires turning the thethermostat housing 1/3 turn to align with the hose. The 1275 engines (which have the thermostat clocked differently), there is a specific housing which must be used. These are readily available.
• Finally you have to install the overflow tank / radiator cap assembly. This needs to be mounted as high as possible to ensure air won't be trapped in the system when you fill. I tried to mount this to the fender well braces, but it was not high enough, so I had to move it to the inner fender well above the left shock.

One additional note on the tank is that it is mounted by means of a metal strap with bolts on each end which wraps around the tank. This part could be fabricated, but is best purchased used from your friendly parts supplier. That's it! The conversion was easy and made a significant reduction in water temperature on my car. It was definitely worth the money and effort for me! Mike Harlan

Temperature Guage Calibration, by Frank Clarici
Temperature guage not reading properly on your Sprite? Fix it yourself in 20 minutes.
Items needed: 5/8" wrench, small pot, propane torch.

• Remove the sending unit from the radiator or head depending on which model Sprite you have.
• Fill a small pot with water and bring to a rapid boil using a propane torch be carful to keep the flame away from any gas or body parts.
• Insert the sending unit bulb into the boiling water. Your gauge should read 212° or be on the start of the "H" area of the later models.
• If it reads otherwise, remove the gauge from the dash, and remove the chrome bezel
• Twist the rim untill the slots line up type, remove the glass lens (it needed cleaning anyway), gently pull the temp needle off its stem, and replace it at 212°.
• Reassemble the gauge, replace the sending unit, top up coolant, wash out the wifes pot and return it to her kitchen.

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.

Frank Clarici
may be copied

Electrical:
Alternator Conversion
Low Voltage Ignition Wire Problems
Tachometer Conversion, Positive to Negative Ground
Electric Tachometer Face Swap for Bugeye

Alternator Conversion - by Frank Clarici

Items needed:
1 Mitsubitshi alternator
1 GM swoop alt. bracket
6'' of 3/8 id steel pipe
3/8 X 8" bolt and nut
3/8 drill bit

This conversion allows the use of halogen headlamps, cd players, and ends your generator worries for good it also eliminates your Lucas voltage regulator. 2 hours is all the time it should take after you aquire all the needed items.

• 1st pick up a good used mitsubisi alternator from your local bone yard, be sure it has a vee belt pulley and not a drive belt pulley, the pulley should look like the one on your generator. Late 80s mazda or mitsubitshi.
• Next, while at the bone yard pick up an alternator bracket from a GM car or truck, it is curved, not straight like your generator bracket.
• Stop at a hardware store and pick up a 3/8 X 8 inch long bolt, nut, and lock washer. Also ask the clerk for a 3/8 ID X 6 inch long galvanized pipe nipple, and a new sharp 3/8 drill bit if you do not own one.
• Back at the Sprite, remove the generator and bracket from the front of the engine.
• Hold the alternator up into position and site the curved bracket for length, you may have to cut it down. Keep the slotted part towards the alternator, cut the other end where it bolts to the engine.
• Now you may have to drill a 3/8 hole in the bracket to fit your mounting point on the front of the engine, be sure your stock size fan belt will fit before you drill. Now drill out the 5/16 " hole on the waterpump ear to 3/8". Also drill out the rear mounting bracket hole to 3/8".
• Insert the 8" long bolt through the rear bracket into the alternator and through the waterpump ear. ( this replaces the 2 5/16 " bolts from the gen.) do not put the nut on yet.
• With the long bolt in place measure the space between the rear bracket and the alt., cut a piece of pipe to take up the space, this is better then a lot of washers, next cut another piece of pipe to fit in between the alternator. Run the 3/8 drill bit through the pipes so that the bolt fits snug inside the pipe.
• Mount the alternator tighten the fan belt check clearance at the right shock it should be close but not touching it.

Now for the wiring

• The large wire from the generator now goes to the large lead of the alternator.
• The small (field) wire goes on one of the small terminals, this will be your indicator warning lamp wire.
• At the voltage regulator remove the wire from terminal ( F ) remove both wires from terminal ( D ) connect the smaller of the ( D ) wires to the wire from ( F ).
• Connect the larger of the ( D ) wires to the wires from terminals ( A ) and ( A!) The only wire left on your regulator should be ( E ) the ground , it's not needed.
• Start up the car and check for smoke leaking out of your wiring harness, if no smoke you are successful.

You can remove your regulator or use it as a junction box for the new wiring . If you use it as a Junction box you will have to cut out the guts, just be sure that the large brown, brown with blue, and brown with yellow wires are connected together, and that the small brown with yellow is connected to the small brown with green ( field to indicator lamp.)

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.
Frank Clarici (may be copied)

Low Voltage Ignition Wire Problems

Having had numerous Sprites thru the years, I have come across a simple problem that will drive you nuts if you are not familiar with it. The problem seems to be the rivets which hold the low voltage terminals to the ignition coil. They loosen up with age.

Symptoms:
Car sputters or dies for no appearent reason.
Electric tach acts erratic or quits.
Problem comes and goes without warning.
Car sputters or dies after hitting a bump.

Check the rivets that hold the terminals to the coil. A quick fix is to tap the rivets home using a small hammer and punch or the edge of a screwdriver. Replacing the coil will solve the problem for another 20 years.

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.

Frank Clarici

Tachometer Conversion, Positive to Negative Ground

Items needed: soldering iron & solder, electic tape or heat shrink tube

• Remove the tachometer from the dash, take it to a clean work site, on the seat of the car is not the place to work on the inside of your tach.
• Remove the chrome bezel, glass lens,and inner black rim.
• Remove the 2 screws from the back of the tach, these hold the mechanism to the housing.
• Holding the tach by its face with the ignition light at 3 o'clock ( red line straight up ) locate the resistor which is soldered to the spade terminal that comes out the back. Locate the post imediatly to the resistors left, these must be reversed. Unsolder the resistor from the spade terminal, unsolder the green wire from the left post, solder the green wire to the spade terminal, solder the resistor to the left post.
• Reassemble the tach into its housing replace rim, clean the lens, re-fit lens and chrome bezel.
• Back in the car, you will have a white wire that makes a loop out of the harness and around a plastic terminal on the back of the tach, this loop must be reversed. Mark the wire 2 inches from each side of the loop, cut each side and switch the wire (reverse the loop) solder the connections and tape or shrink tube the bare wire.
• Mark the tach on the outside of the housing NEGATIVE GROUND.
• Install the tach in the dash, hook up the loop and green wire and be sure the housing is properly grounded.

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.

Frank Clarici

Electric Tachometer Face Swap for Bugeye

BUGEYE TACHOMETER CONVERSION

Many Bugeye owners are confronted with the problem of sorting out a tach drive once they have converted either to an alternator or discover that they cannot find a mechanical tach drive at a reasonable price. Frank Clarici offers a great piece of advice on how to convert an electronic tack over to negative ground. I have taken his advice one step further. Many Bugeye owners do not want to give up the stock look of the original gauges, so I have outlined here how to solve the tach drive as well as the stock looking gauges problem.

You will need:

• original Bugeye tach
• tach from a Mk3 Sprite or Mk2 Midget (this is an electric tach, the same diameter as the Bugeye)
• Frank Clarici instructions on how to convert to negative ground (if your car is negative ground)
• Small standard screwdriver
• touch up paint (optional)

1 Hour labor Procedure:

• Remove the front chrome ring, glass and seals from both tachometers by twisting the ring. The rubber seal on them may need to be replaced.
• Very carefully remove the RPM indicator needle from each of the tachs by pulling straight off the post.
• Using a small screwdriver remove the 2 small screws that hold the face plate of each tach.
• The screw spacing is different for the faceplates, lay the Mk3 faceplate over the Bugeye face plate and using a small drill bit, drill the 2 holes in the proper location. Be very careful how much pressure you put on the faceplates as they are very soft and can be deformed.
• (OPTIONAL) Use super glue to affix a thin patch to the backside of the faceplate or fill the hole with epoxy, to cosmetically close and paint the old screw holes in the Bugeye faceplate.
• Install the Bugeye faceplate and RPM needle onto the electronic tachometer.
• Reinstall the tach chrome ring and glass with new rubber seal if needed.
• Install reconfigured tach into car dash and do electrical hook up. You will connect a 12 volt line to the spade connector on the rear, the case is grounded and a length of wire will go from the coil, loop around the sensor pickup on the rear of the tach, and back to the points terminal on the distributor.

It is that easy, drop me a line if you need more information,
Bob Magnotti
bob@itgonline.com

Transmission/Differential::
Universal Joint Replacement

Universal Joint Replacement

Having replaced universal joints on Spridgets several times, most recently helping a friend who was stuck, I thought I'd share a very easy tip for installing the propeller shaft after replacement of the joints. Installing the slip yoke into the transmission through the tunnel for the shaft can be frustrating if the joint flops around. To ease installation,simply wrap the joint with electrical tape (3m works best) and install the joint. The heat and rotation of the shaft will send the tape to the rear of the shaft with a few miles of driving allowing it to be removed. I refuse to believe that this is an original idea, being so low-tech, but no one I've told so far had ever heard of this trick. I hope this helps keep the B.F.F.(British Frustration Factor) Down to acceptable levels. Jerry Carroll

Suspension / Steering:
Drum to Disk Brake Conversion
Steering Wheel Modification (smaller diameter)

Drum to Disc Brake Conversion

This is the quick, cheap, down and dirty disc brake conversion. You may want to spend a whole lot more money by purchasing all new parts and rebuilding your front end while you are working in this area. This tech tip is NOT going into that kind of detail.

Items needed:
"A" arms from a disc brake spridget including rotors, calipers, and swivel axles. For quick and cheap disc brakes you will need to aquire a set of "A" arms from a later Sprite or Midget. 1964 on will work. Remove the complete "A" arm assembly from the body and the shock keeping all of the parts intact. Be sure you have the swivel axles, brake rotors, and calipers.
NEW brake pads
NEW brake hoses (disc). DO NOT use used rubber brake hoses, your life is not worth your saving $30.

• Remove your "A" arms from the body of the car and also undo the 11/16 nut atop the swivel pin lift the shock arm and remove the complete assembly from the car.
• Replace all of the above with the disc brake setup from the donor car. Be sure to inspect the bushings, rotors, and king pins for wear, replace as needed.
• Install the NEW hoses and pads, bleed the brake system and grease the front end.
• This conversion is outlined for people with mechanical skills, if you are not sure about ripping out front ends, consult a work shop manual.

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.

Frank Clarici

Steering Wheel Modification (smaller diameter)

In my continuing efforts to fit a large body into a very small car, I offer the following modification to the steering wheel.

1. Remove steering wheel. My hub wouldn't come off so I just removed the spoke attachment bolts.
2. Carefully remove original rubber grip material - a single edge razor blade works well.
3. Cut spokes off flush with rim.
4. Cut out section of rim to desired size. eg. to go from standard 15 to 13", cut 2 x pi or 6.3" from the rim.
5. Now the fun part. Reshape rim to new diameter trying to keep it as round as possible.
6. Shorten spokes by about one inch.
7. Clamp together and weld rim and spokes.
8. Refit grip material using 3M weather strip adhesive.

I also added a foam wheel cover to keep everything together. Advantages: cost no adapter to move the wheel even closer to your chest horn still works (well, as good as it ever did...) Next project: Modify seat backs on later cars to gain some more valuable real estate for long legs (mine is a 74 midget and the seat back cushion looks much thicker than it needs to be)
Rich Wagner

Body:
MKI Sprite Windscreen Replacement
Sprite Color Codes

MKI Sprite Windscreen Replacement

After a long and unsucessful battle to find a replacement windscreen for my car [1958 Mk1 Sprite] I eventually came up with a suitable solution that not only works, but is considerably cheaper then conventional means. I took a template of the existing windscreen [in my case it was perspex as the previous owner was equally unsuccessful it appears] and then had a 4mm float glass copy made which I then sent to our local glass toughening plant for the necessary processing. Albeit the output was a flat piece of 4mm toughened saftey glass it actually bends surprisingly easily, especially bearing in mind that the Sprite windscreen has but a gentle curve. Using the same gasket that is used in modern sliding windows [wrap around gasket] I was able to do the entire replacement unassisted and now have a new, clear curved glass windscreen. The fact that it is only 4mm thick is rather academic as the overall area is less than 0.35sqM and it's strength lies in the outer tensioned layer of the glass surfaces, in fact it is far stronger than the 6mm laminated glass that would normally be fitted. The reason for the choice of glass thickness lay in the fact that it would bend far more readily than 6mm glass and would not exert too great a force to return to the flat condition and thus causing possible stress damage to the metal surrounds. If my explaination appears rather simple please Email me and I will give full advise. Furthermore should any Sprite owner require a replacement windscreen as described above I can [from your template] make up a unit and crate it etc for approximately $70.00. ex Cape Town, South Africa. Once again Email me should any one be interested.

Regards, Martin Pedder
fastraq@iafrica.com
tel/fax +2721 557-8657

Misc:
Interior Panels for Side Curtain Models
Carpets for $30.00
Install a convertible Top

Carpets for $30.00 - by Frank Clarici

Have you seen the carpet kits available for Sprites and Midgets, they cost $100 and up and they do not fit properly. Here is the solution. Items needed:

• Two rolls (4yards) auto carpet from auto parts chain, (Pep Boys) discount store, (Wal Mart or K-Mart) or from a carpet store. average price $5 per yd or $10 per 2 yd roll any color.
• One can 3M foam adhesive #74 or #77
• Razor knife with extra blades.

If you have your old carpets you can use them as a template if not , no problem, just follow these simple instructions:

• Remove seats and tracks
• Measure length of floor from rear bulkhead to front frame rail, up over and down frame rail, and measure width across floor pan.
• Cut 2 pieces, 1 for each side about 24 inches by 36 inches.
• Lay carpet in floor and trim to the center hump and front cross member with razor knife. Keep the cut offs as these will be used for the frame members at the footwells.
• Cut a piece 48" X 24" for the rear deck and bulkhead this curves right around and looks much better then the 2 pieces that come in a kit.
• Trim to fit, use the cut offs for the rear wheel wells and their frame rails. Cut a piece 19" X 19" for the back of the center hump. The 2 hardest areas are the wheel wells and the front of the hump with its curves and shifter hole.
• For the wells glue up both suffices cut out for the seat belt bolt if your Sprite is so equipped, fold the carpet and cut through the fold (double cut) for a perfect fit. Try this with and old heavy rag or sweat shirt to get a pattern.
• As for the front of the hump, this must be done in 3 pieces, cut the left and right sides 1" taller then needed, cut the top 2" wider then needed, hold the pieces in place and mark the top corners with chalk, these will have to be sewn together. A heavy duty sewing machine works best but it can be accomplished by hand sewing, a little binding around the shifter and rear edge make a nice finishing touch. Again use a rag as a template.
• Once all the pieces are fitted and trimmed, spray the glue on both surfaces, let stand for 1 minute and press in place.

The carpet should hold in place for many years and can easily be removed with some mild pulling should you want to inspect your floors for rust. For a really nice touch try some carpet padding under the rug. You will not believe how much road noise this eliminates. Glue it in in the same manner. I have done this procedure to 4 Sprites now, 2 with padding , 2 without, and have had no loose carpeting at all. The first car was done over 4 years ago.
Good luck.

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.
Frank Clarici
may be copied

Interior Panels for Side Curtain Models - by Frank Clarici

Are your interior panels warped, ripped, or non existent? You can do it yourself for about $60 in a Saturday afternoon in any color imaginable including hot pink. The items you will need are:

• 4 X 8 sheet of 1/8" hardboard (masonite)
• 3M spray adhesive #74 or #77
• 1pint of Weldwood brand contact glue ( the flammable kind)
• 3 yards of quality vinyl
• tools - jigsaw, drill, razor knife

The procedure:

• Pick up a 4 X 8 sheet of 1/8" masonite at any lumber or home center, using your old panels as a template, mark the sheet and cut out panels using a jigsaw. If your car has no interior panels use cardboard to make templates. (There are 2 inner fender panels, 2 lower footwell panels, 1 in front of the shifter over the hump, 2 rocker panels, 2 panels that go over the rear wheel wells and cover the rear 1/4 panels, and the 2 door pockets.)
• On the wheel well panels mark the hood stick brackets drill a hole large enough for your jigsaw blade and cut out the square hole. If your car has seat belts that attach to the rockers, make a notch for them. Sand the edges of the masonite. Mark each piece for its location and mark the back side so you won't get confused when covering them.
• Lay out the vinyl on a clean work bench and cut about 2" larger in each direction then the panel to be covered.
• With the spray glue coat the back of the vinyl and the front of the panel, let the glue stand for 1 minute and press the panel onto the vinyl, turn it over and check for bubbles or wrinkles.
• Now using the contact cement, coat the exposed vinyl over lap and the back side of the masonite with 2 coats allowing 30 minutes drying time between coats. This step also water proofs the panel.
• When the 2nd coat is dry, cut off the corners leaving 1/8" long to cover the edge, fold the vinyl over the back of the panel and press in place. For inside curves, cut slits in the vinyl and fold over. For the holes in the wheel well panels, cut an X diagonally through vinyl and fold over. The door pockets may be a little tricky but patients and time will result in a good finished product.
• When installing your new panels carefully align the fender panels and drill the holes for the door check straps. Use a #6 X 1/2" self drilling screw with finishing washers to reinstall the panels taking care not to screw through the rear wiring harness leg when working on the right side of the car.
• Are you ready to cover the dashboard? Go ahead, glue, stick, stretch, and fold. Cut out for the instruments.

Good luck,

If you do NOT agree with these ideas, if you are "mechanically challenged" or are just down right "stupid" I suggest you perchase New parts from a supplier of your choice and have a local shop do this work for you.
Frank Clarici
may be copied

Installing a Convertible Top - Steve Byers

NOTE: This procedure was written specifically while installing a top on a '73 Midget, but they can be adapted to other models.

1. Fold the top in half along a line from front to back. This locates the centerline. Mark the location of the centerline at the front and rear of the top with chalk.

2. Put the top in place over the rear fastener locations with the chalk mark lined up with the center hole in the cockpit pinch weld. Place the rear retainer bar in place with its lower edge lined up with the upper edge of the binding material on the top. It helps to have an assistant or two to keep the top properly stretched from side to side and located while you punch the holes for the fasteners in the top material.

3. From the cockpit side, using an awl or icepick through the center fastener hole in the rear cockpit pinch weld, punch through the top material to locate the fastener hole. Ensure that the awl comes out through the center hole in the retainer bar.

4. Install the center snap fastener through the retainer bar, top material, the outer lip of the cockpit rubber seal, and the cockpit pinch weld.

5. Alternating from one side to the other, repeat steps 3 and 4 to install the remaining six snap fasteners along the rear edge of the top, working your way out from the center. Be sure to check that the lower edge of the retainer bar stays aligned with the upper edge of the top binding, as in step 2, before punching the hole for each snap fastener.

6. Position the top material tightly around the curves at the rear corners of the cockpit. Use the Tenax stud holes in the pinch weld to locate the holes in the top for the Tenax fasteners. I preferred to do these one at a time, and alternate from side to side to make sure the top stayed even. The lower edge of the top should be almost touching the little ledge on the body as it goes around the corners. Punch the holes with the awl. Install the Tenax fasteners on the top, and the studs in the cockpit pinch weld, then fasten the top using the Tenax fasteners

7. When all the fasteners are installed at the rear, latch the top frame header rail to the windshield.

8. Determine the center point of the top frame header rail, and mark it with chalk. I used the windshield center rod as a guide.

9. Pull the top tight over the frame and down against the header rail over the windshield, lining up the chalk mark on the top (step 1) with the chalk mark on the header rail (step 8). Have a couple assistants keep the top tight from side to side over the frame. While keeping the top material stretched over the header rail, and feeling the edge of the header rail through the top material, mark a line on the top across its whole width indicating where the edge of the header rail is. Now mark a parallel line 1/2 inch back from the first. At this point, you can erase the first line. (NOTE: what you have just done is allow for 1/2 inch of stretch to make sure the top is tight when finally attached to the header rail and the top is latched)

10. Unlatch the top frame and partially fold it back. Apply contact cement to the outer surface of the header rail and the inner surface of the top material back to the chalk line.

11. After the contact cement sets up, attach the top to the header rail, aligning the chalk line with the edge of the rail. The remaining top material should be folded over the rail and secured with contact cement, trimming any excess as necessary. I preferred to let the material overlap the holes for the seal channel.

12. Now you are ready to install the seal channel and seal. I used self-tapping screws for the seal channel instead of rivets. Probe with the awl through the top material to find the rivet holes in the header rail. This will properly locate the seal channel. The seal has a foot that is stuffed into the channel with a screwdriver (or similar tool).

13. The various snap fasteners for the interior can be located by rubbing chalk on the mating male part on the windshield posts and top frame, stretching the material over the male fastener, and rubbing it to transfer the chalk. Use an awl to punch the holes in the center of the chalk marks. It takes a special tool to install the snap fastener female halves, but they are available and not expensive.

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